MARMARIS ( www.marmaris-online.com ) rivals Kusadasi as the largest and most developed Aegean resort. Its huge marina and proximity to Dalaman airport mean that tourists pour in more or less nonstop during the warmer months. According to legend, the place was named when Süleyman the Magnificent, not finding the castle here to his liking, was heard to mutter "Mimari as " ("Hang the architect") - a command which should perhaps still apply to the designers of the seemingly endless high-rises. Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvari cuts Marmaris in half, and the maze of narrow streets east of it is home to most things of interest, though little is left of the sleepy fishing village that Marmaris was a mere two decades ago. The bazaar is now little more than an area of covered streets, and only the Kaleiçi district, the warren of streets at the base of the tiny castle, offers a pleasant wander. The castle museum (Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 1-5.30pm; $1) has a worthwhile archeology and ethnography collection.

A new bus station has recently opened about 1.5km south of the town centre, from where you can pick up a dolmus to take you to the town centre, or it's a $3 taxi-ride. Many of the bus companies also offer a free transfer minibus to their offices in the centre. The ferry dock abuts Iskele Meydana, on one side of which stands the very helpful tourist office (summer daily 8.30am-7.30pm; winter Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm), which dispenses town plans and accommodation details. The development of package tourism has ensured that hotels here are expensive and welcoming pansiyons few and far between - but the tourist office is tuned in to the needs of backpackers and can help out. The cheapest option is the Interyouth Hostel at Tepe Mahallesi 42, Sok 45, in the bazaar close to the Atatürk statue (tel 0252/412 3687, interyouth@turk.net ; under £5/$8), with around 180 beds in single, double and dormitory rooms, a lively rooftop café, and facilities including Internet access and a competitively priced travel service. Behind the huge Tansas shopping centre is the Nadir (tel 0252/412 1167; under £5/$8) which has both en-suite pansiyon rooms and hotel rooms complete with air-conditioning and TV. Another good budget pension is the Yesim , west of the centre towards Uzunyala beach at Atatürk Cad 60, Sok 3 (tel 0252/412 3001; under £5/$8), a well-maintained place offering en-suite rooms. More upmarket is the great-value Marina Motel (tel 0252/412 6598; www.turquaz-guide.net ; £5-10/$8-16), which has clean en-suite rooms and a breakfast terrace.

Getting a decent meal at a reasonable price is a challenge, although the fabulous Kirçiçegi on Kübilay Alpagün Cad behind the bazaar offers excellent traditional Turkish food at reasonable prices. Among the several options in the bazaar area close to the PTT, Marmaris and Liman are both acceptable and are frequented by the locals. To the west, Uzunyali harbours various pizza joints and a reasonable Turkish restaurant, Turhan , at Uzunyali 26. For drinking , Panorama , up on the castle hill, offers great views, and the nearby Haci Mustafa Sokagi (aka "Bar Street") contains a wealth of other drinking venues, such as Davy Jones' Locker and Casablanca . Lin Net, 38 Atatürk Cad opposite the Atatürk statue, has Internet access.

Ferries to Rhodes ($35 one-way or day-return; $50 open return; sometimes less in high season) run daily in high season, dropping to one a week in winter. Agents include Yesil Marmaris, Barbaros Cad 13 (tel 0252/412 2290), and Engin Turizm, 3rd floor, G. Mustafa Cad 16 (tel 0252/412 6944). There's a once-weekly car ferry (cars $150 one-way).