KUSADASI ( www.kusadasi.net ) is Turkey's most bloated resort, a brash coastal playground which extends along several kilometres of seafront. In just three decades its population has swelled from 6000 to around 50,000, though far fewer stay year-round. The town is many people's introduction to the country: efficient ferry services link it with the Greek islands of Sámos and Míkonos, plus the resort is an obligatory port of call for Aegean cruise ships, which disgorge vast numbers in summer - who delight the local souvenir merchants after a visit to the ruins of Ephesus just inland.

Liman Caddesi runs from the ferry port up to Atatürk Bulvari , the main harbour esplanade, from which pedestrianized Barbaros Hayrettin Bulvari ascends the hill. To the left of here, the Kale district, huddled inside the town walls, is the old and most appealing part of town, with a namesake mosque and some fine traditional houses. Kusadasi's most famous beach , the Kadinlar Denizi (Ladies' Beach), around 3km southwest of town, is a popular strand, usually too crowded for its own good in season. Güvercin Island , closer to the centre, is mostly landscaped terraces, dotted with tea gardens and snack bars, but the swimming is rocky. For the closest decent sand, head 500m further south to the small beach north of Yilanci Burnu , or 7km north of town to Tusan beach; both are served by all Kusadasi-Selçuk dolmuses , as well as more frequent ones labelled Sehir Içi . Much the best beach in the area is Pamucak , at the mouth of the Kücük Menderes River 15km north, an exposed, 4km stretch of sand that is as yet little developed; it's served by regular dolmuses from both Kusadasi and Selçuk in season.