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Modern ANKARA is really two cities, a double
identity that is due to the breakneck pace at which it has developed since being declared
capital of the Turkish Republic in 1923. Until then Ankara - known as Angora - had been a
small provincial city, famous chiefly for the production of soft goat's wool. This city
still exists, in and around the old citadel that was the site of the original settlement.
The other Ankara is the modern metropolis that has grown up around a carefully planned
attempt to create a seat of government worthy of a modern, Western-looking state. It's
worth visiting just to see how successful this has been, although there's not much else to
the place, and the museums and handful of other sights need only detain you for a day or
two at most.
The City
Finding your way around Ankara is fairly easy. The city is bisected north-south by
Atatürk Bulvari , and everything you need is in easy reach of this broad and busy street.
At the northern end, Ulus Meydani (known simply as Ulus), a...
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